Long-Field Visit

Long'Field viewThis past week I went on a second site visit. This time I traveled with 4 other trainees and 1 language teacher.  We spent 3 nights in the community of a current volunteer. We had language classes at the volunteer’s house and helped the volunteer with projects like giving health presentations and making dish soap.

I stayed with a host family on a humble farm with a wonderful view. The fields lightly peppered with trees, tall golden-white grass, and cows reminded me of my childhood—rural Vermont. The corrugated-ruffed space that served as a dirt-floored dining room/living room looked just right with its hanging baskets of plants, rough-wooden chairs, and flower-patterned clothed table. Somehow the attentive audience of cats and dogs who sang songs around my feet while I ate was charming. I found myself amused and pleased by the pigs that wondered in-and-out of the living space, grunting and squeaking as they waddled. The pigs were funniest when the mother of the family locked them in a shed just next to the dining table so they wouldn’t bother her while she cooked. The pigs pushed their snouts out of a hole in the bottom of the door and gave a squealing protest.

I started my days early with a sunrise run with my host volunteer. Nothing quite lifts my spirits like a good morning run,. Next came my shower and coffee breakfast.  I’m not usually a coffee drinker, so even the mostly milk brew was quite a kick-starter.

Running water in Paraguay—showers, sinks, and toilets—are different than in the US. The simplest of shower spaces has a concrete floor with a drain with nothing separating the shower space from the toilet space. The walls of the bathroom are made of mud bricks and put together with a clay-cement-dirt mix. The showerhead is plastic and round, maybe 8 inches in diameter. There is a switch along the edge of the showerhead were you can select cold or warm water. The toilet has a string to flush it that is attached to a tank mounted on the wall about 5 feet above the floor. The sink faucets in the bathroom (and kitchen) are frequently plastic.

In the morning, at the volunteer’s home, I had Guarani class. The afternoon was filled with laugher, health presentations in the 30-student community school, and chatting in a mix of English, Spanish, and Guarani: They say that volunteers leave Paraguay speaking 3 languages poorly. My group gave a dental hygiene presentation to community parents a day early because plans changed at the last minute and we redesigned our recycling presentation for kids halfway through because the activity we planned wasn’t working for the students. We made bubblegum colored dish soap and tried double digging the volunteer’s garden. I say “try” because the site I visited hasn’t seen rain for about 3 months and the soil was like a firmly packed, dirt road on a crisp Vermont-autumn day—pretty dang hard.

I have almost 2 weeks before I learn where my site will be. Nothing has helped me feel as ready as the volunteer site visits. I’ve gotten to practice my language skills with community members and to see what life, as a volunteer, is really like. I spent my first site visit learning what it means to be a volunteer and confirming that the Peace Corps is right for me. This second visit, to a different site, I spent learning how I can be a volunteer once I get to my site. It’s hard to explain how helpful it’s been to have my host volunteers answer the waterfall of questions I’ve had, share their stories and insights, and show me that being a volunteer is real, not just an amazing dream.

Terere – A Drink of Champions

Cup, straw, and water container for drinking terere

Cup, straw, and water container for drinking terere

Terere is a drink that consists of yerba mate. The yerba mate is dried and is often mixed with other herbs. My favorite blend has boldo and mint. The dried herbs are poured to fill about two thirds of a cup (there’s a special cup for terere that’s called a guampa). Cold water is poured over the herb mixture. You drink terere through a medial straw called a bombilla that has something like a tea filter/strainer on the tip. You can also put fresh herbs or lemon in the water you use to pour over the herbs.

Most Paraguayans drink terere, and they drink it a lot. I’d say terere is the first free-time pastime, surpassing soccer because you can drink terere while watching soccer. Drinking terere is social and can go on for hours.

Yerba mate

Yerba mate

You can drink terere alone or in a group. When drinking in a group, everyone drinks from the same cup and there are some basic social guidelines:

  • The first cup poured is for Saint Thomas. Why? The water is absorbed by the dry yerba mate so no living person can drink it.
  • When serving terere you should pass to your right. The water should be poured into the cup so that it just covers the dried herbs.
  • When you get the terere cup, you must drink all the liquid in the cup. You should finish it in 1 to 2 sips (I usually need 3).
  • You should NOT drink terere while you are eating or smoking because the flavor gets stuck in the straw (yuck). You also should not participate in drinking terere if you are sick. It is your responsibility to say “no” if you are sick because people will still offer terere to you to be polite.
  • You shouldn’t keep the guampa too long, so when it’s your turn to drink take a break from talking.
  • Don’t say “thank you” when someone passes you the cup unless you want to stop drinking terere. You only say “thank you” when you are done drinking.

    Bombilla

    Bombilla

Cursed Ants (aka la Hormiga)

ant hillRed ants, black ants, brown ants

Small ants, medium ants, big ants

Crawling ants, flying ants, cutting ants

We have them all in Paraguay and they all bite.

You can find them in the grass

You can find them on the patio, on the chair, and probably in my hair

You can find them everywhere

Red ants, black ants, brown ants

Small ants, medium ants, big ants

Crawling ants, flying ants, cutting ants

We have them all in Paraguay and they all bite.

Ants make hills and ants make mounds

Despite their numbers, ants don’t make sounds

But marching and creeping they do alarm

Red ants, black ants, brown ants

Small ants, medium ants, big ants

Crawling ants, flying ants, cutting ants

We have them all in Paraguay and they all bite.

Ants bite hard and leave welts

Red and swollen humps and bumps

Ants can definitely give you the slumps

Red ants, black ants, brown ants

Small ants, medium ants, big ants

Crawling ants, flying ants, cutting ants

We have them all in Paraguay and they all bite.

Never have I seen so many ants

I like them least when they crawl up and down my pants

Cursed ants, darned hormiga

Red ants, black ants, brown ants

Small ants, medium ants, big ants

Crawling ants, flying ants, cutting ants

We have them all in Paraguay and they all bite.

We Built a Fogone

A fogone is a wood-burning cook stove. It is made out of brinks and mud/cement.

In rural areas of Paraguay some families still cook all their meals over open fires. Oftentimes these fires are under a roof or inside the house. While cooking over an open fire is just fine while you are camping, it can negatively impact health if used for all meals throughout a lifetime.

Negative effects of open-fire cooking as a part of daily life:

  • Back problems caused by having to bend over to cook
  • Increased risk of upper respiratory infections due to breathing smoke
  • Burns, a bigger risk for children playing by fires

A fogone offers an economical solution for families that use wood to cook. Gas is expensive and many traditional Paraguayan foods require a lot of time to cook. Wood is generally inexpensive and can be an environmentally friendly, sustainable option if the wood is harvested correctly.

Building the first couple layers of the fogone.

Building the first couple layers of the fogone.

First two layers of the fogone.

First two layers of the fogone.

Backside of the fogone.

Backside of the fogone.

Frontside of the fogone.

Frontside of the fogone.

Checking out the done fogone - photo courtesy of Kelsey Levering

Checking out the done fogone – photo courtesy of Kelsey Levering

The fogone is done! - photo courtesy of Kelsey Levering

The fogone is done! – photo courtesy of Kelsey Levering

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Dirt

Fork in the road

When I was younger my family went on vacation to Prince Edward Island, the island of Anne of Green Gables. Much like Anne’s hair, Prince Edward Island has red beaches and red dirt.

Paraguay has red dirt too. I find myself thinking of Anne of Green Gables from time-to-time–not only because of the dirt, but because the ox carts and horse carts that plod along my community’s roads and hand washing my clothes remind me of a time past.

They say in the Paraguay campo (the countryside or rural areas) the red mud is worse. It can be hard to get out of your clothes and shoes. Volunteers in the campo suggest soaking red-mud stained clothes overnight to cut down on clothes scrubbing time.

When it rains even the paved and cobbles streets are flooded with red-water rivers and puddles. Most of the Paraguayan dirt I’ve seen is fine sand. The sand gets everywhere—it crunches on the tile floors in my house, tracked in on our sandals, and creates a light film that covers walls and windows.